The brand news Eastern Sardinia – Crags guidebook by Richard Felderer and edited by Versante Sud collects in a very detailed and accurate way the best climbing areas we can find along the east coast of Sardinia.
The thickness of the guidebook suggests - to anyone who has never been climbing in Sardinia - the immense amount of rock that characterizes the island. In so many choices it is crucial to have a reference on which are the crags most suitable for us on a first visit, taking into account factors such as the season, the climbing level, the approach and the quality of the rock.
Each area such as Oliena, Gonone and Ulassai includes several crags that can differ for a more or less recent bolting, a best grip on the rock and other small details. We have selected five areas taking into account a level of difficulty suitable for beginners, the beauty of the place and the ease of access. By getting a copy of the guidebook, you will still have the opportunity to have a wider overview than our proposals.
Spigolo Fuili, Photo by Richard Felderer
Baronia - Paretina for Lodé and del Tempo
Around Lodè there are some extremely interesting walls suitable for beginners and intermediate climbers; the recent rebolting has helped to make these climbing sectors unmissable for anyone who is visiting the north east of Sardinia. The two sectors (Paretina for Lodè and Del Tempo) have been equipped with a hundred routes in total, many of which from 5a to 6c. The very short approach, the comfort of the base and the quiet environment also make them very suitable for a relaxing and fun day for climbers with family. Some routes, no longer than ten meters long, are also suitable for those who are approaching outdoor climbing.
Oliena - Valle del Lanaitto
The Lanaitto valley, perhaps less known than areas such as Ulassai and Cala Gonone, is located in a decidedly wild area and, for this reason, of rare beauty. Together with Monte Maccione, it is presented in the guidebook within the chapter dedicated to Oliena, a small city where you can stay during your vertical days around here.
The Lanaitto valley is particularly valuable in winter and includes the cliffs of Su Gurruthone, Pianeta Lanaitto, Musicland and Sa Ohe. Among these, the first is the most suitable for those who have a beginner or intermediate level, although we must pay particular attention to the bolting of some routes, with some longer passages that require a spirit of adventure. The rock is excellent, the landscape superb and the approach of ten minutes follows a pleasant flat path. Always in the Lanaitto Valley we briefly point out Musicland, a sector with wonderful rock, particularly appreciable by those who have an intermediate level and good familiarity with a “quite far aparts” bolts. The climbing routes develop on magnificent vertical or slightly overhanging walls, with many possibilities on slabs.
Cala Gonone - Gonone Centro
If Oliena is a discovery for many climbers who have never visited Sardinia, Cala Gonone certainly sounds familiar to everyone. To make this area so famous since the 80s have contributed the legendary landscape, where sea and rock come together, and a rock of excellent quality, although it is in some points polished by the many climbers who have climbed here. Even the bolting of the most recent sectors puts everyone at ease, ensuring unforgettable days of pure fun.
The very large area of Cala Gonone includes Dorgali, Gonone Centro, Gonone Millenium and Fuili, each of them hosting many smaller sectors: this great variety allows finding some quiet corner to the many climbers who come here year by year.
To meet the needs of beginner and then intermediate level climbers up to the 7th, we point out Buchi Arta, a vertical wall with almost no approach and excellent bolting. Here you will find strength endurance routes on good holds. If you love old-school climbing, you can not miss La Poltrona, the historic limestone wall overlooking Cala Gonone.
Also Bidirisccottai, always in the area of Gonone Centro, is an unmissable and emblematic sector of climbing in Sardinia: its walls are practically on the beach and have vertical structures or funny overhangs with good holds that guarantee varied and photogenic climbing. The routes have been recently re-bolted with new materials, able to resist the corrosion that often occurs near the sea. Routes for everyone from 5b to 7c, with the possibility of climbing all year round depending on weather conditions.
Matteo Piccardi on The Day After 7b, photo by Richard Felderer.
Ogliastra Nord – Villaggio Gallico
If you have already heard of Baunei, then you already have an idea of climbing in Ogliastra Nord. This area has been recently developed with new sectors and routes, to offer a less frequented alternative and with newer rock compared to the more "classic" crags: one of these is Punta Giogadorgiu, recently bolted with about twenty routes from 5c to 7b.
Villaggio Gallico is one of the most historical sectors of the Baunei area, as well as one of the most crowded, also thanks to its countless strong points such as an almost zero approach, routes suitable for beginners and a unique beauty. Only in this sector there are about forty routes from 5c to 7b with different lengths (from ten to thirty meters), usually on vertical or slightly overhanging slabs. The nearby Creuza de Ma offers an overhanging and more dynamic alternative to passionates of short and bouldering routes, always with difficulties ranging from 6a to 7b.
Starting from the same parking lot you can also reach The Solar System, a crag that counts more than fifty pitches on different styles, some of which recently bolted by guidebook author together with some friends of the area. For those who climb between 5c and 7a, there are plenty of possibilities on crimps, holes, slabby and overhanging climbing.
Photo by Richard Felderer
Ogliastra south - Tacchi
The area of Ulassai is one of those that has been most successful in recent years, thanks to the presence of some structures managed by climbers who have shown the beauty to an audience definitely ready to welcome some news.
Bau Arena
Bau Arena is one of the winter destinations par excellence, completely exposed to the sun and suitable for those who easily climb from 6a and up, without too much fear of a bolting only sometimes a little severe. Overhangs, slabs, notched walls and dihedra await anyone who wants to spend pleasant days on the rock climbing in full sun.
Canyon
It is one of the most historic areas of Ulassai, where a first bolting work was started in the early 2000s, and then lived a second moment of enhancement in more recent times. Compared to the Bau Arena, for example, it is a cliff less suitable for the winter period, while it can be really pleasant in the middle seasons. Today it is one of the most interesting crags in the area of Ogliastra Sud, which leaves a little in the background of other neighboring crags, instead fully worth a visit. In the canyon you will find many routes that start from 4b up to an interesting 8c; both the length and style of the streets are very varied, with short and bouldery lines in the left sector and slabs on 15/20 meters in the right sector.
Mirco Grasso on Niagara 8a+, Canyon, photo by Richard Felderer