Climbing on multi-pitch routes is the most classic form of climbing, ideally combining the sporting gesture that today excites many new climbers with the more "old-school" idea of reaching a summit.
The shoes created specifically for this type of activity also recall the most historic climbing shoe models thanks to the flat and rather symmetrical shape of the sole, the classic closure with laces, and a very structured construction.
The objectives these shoes are designed for are comfort, durability, and precision, essential features for multi-pitch routes that require us to stay on the wall for several hours.A fairly strong structure allows us not to feel too much fatigue in the calves and feet; at the same time, the accuracy of the lacing system—easily adjustable up to the tip of the foot—guarantees us excellent sensitivity on footholds.
We have selected five models of multi-pitch climbing shoes that will give you the right support in your next vertical adventures. Some of these models are among the favorites of Big Wall specialists such as Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold. Let’s discover together the characteristics of each of these shoes and their strengths.
SCARPA Generator Mid and Generator Mid WMN
The SCARPA Generator Mid is the latest version born from the previous Generator, and they have been specifically designed for Big Wall climbing and the most challenging multi-pitch routes.
Made with "medium" volumes, they adapt to a large and heterogeneous number of climbers who want to test themselves with the most difficult challenges. Generator Mid sums up the best of a series of technologies developed to offer maximum comfort and excellent performance: an example would be the support, which derives from the synergy between the Vibram XS Edge compound and the Flexan Dynamic midsole, along the entire length of the foot. This great support is optimized by a Tri-tension tensioning system that helps you concentrate all the pushing force of the legs on the toe, giving you a feeling of great stability and reliability.
The main difference from the classic version is, first of all, the neoprene protection over the ankles: the use of a higher upper and soft microfiber inserts will allow you to have excellent protection even in the most aggressive cracks. Also, the upper, made of microfiber and faux leather, helps to maintain the shape over time, adapting to the different morphologies of the feet without giving in too much. Internally, there are elastic inserts that will wrap the foot with a perfect feeling of softness. If you want to try ambitious and challenging projects on the Big Wall or in slots, the SCARPA Generator Mid could become your ace in the hole.
Speaking of shoes with testimonials of the highest level, the TC Pro Olive of La Sportiva are no match. Chosen by Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell, two of the most iconic climbers ever when it comes to Big Wall, for their most extreme feats, they represent the most iconic shoes for this type of climbing.
The reasons lie mainly in the details: the laces, made of recycled material, are extremely resistant to abrasions from climbing in fissures and allow you to adjust the volumes of the shoe from the instep to the toe. The tongue has been made in such a way as to reduce as much as possible the friction points with the foot, both thanks to the soft microfiber material and to the reduced thickness. La Sportiva’s TC Pro Olives rely on the Vibram XS Edge 4 mm outsole and provide comfort, durability, and high performance: try them if multi-pitch or crack climbing is your priority.
The Masai of Tenaya are shoes suitable for everyone, which are therefore also open to use by beginner climbers on their first adventures on long routes. The strengths of these shoes are excellent support on the notches and edges and a comfortable fit that is enhanced by both the closure and the materials of the upper in soft microfiber. The structure of the shoe has an intermediate stiffness that you can make the most of on vertical walls, and a shape only slightly asymmetrical and arched at the height of the big toe. What distinguishes these shoes from the others is the balance between all their parts (rigidity, sensitivity, comfort), which makes them perfectly usable even on crags or wherever there are vertical or slightly overhanging walls.
Comfortable and reliable for the longest and most demanding days on the rock, Ocun Jett LU are also ideal for multi-pitch routes and crack climbing. Its neutral arch and the almost symmetrical shape of the sole make it an "all-round" shoe, able to adapt to different outdoor situations. The roomy toebox makes the fit really pleasant; at the same time, the precise lacing system that runs up to the tip will give you the certainty of not leaving empty spaces and a reliable feeling of grip. For this shoe, the compound is the CAT Rubber 1.5 4 mm, stiff enough to give you support on any type of foothold. Bring them with you on your longest days on the wall: their breathability will amaze you even on the warmest days.
Their name leaves no doubt: taking inspiration from the park with the most famous Big Wall of the United States, Evolv presents a pair of shoes born for Big Wall climbing and extreme vertical challenges.
Comfort is their main strength: the softness of the upper, the protection on the ankles, and the tongue divided in half to be able to quickly put them on and off are just some of the factors that help make the fit pleasant even after many hours of use. Evolv has made these shoes with a durable and stiff full-length sole: it is the Trax 4.2 mm, a certainty in terms of grip and reliability. The indestructible synthetic material used for the upper will protect you from abrasions even during crack joints, and in all those twisting movements typical of this climbing style.
Evolv’s Yosemite Bum is a high-quality product for anyone who wants to climb hard on big walls and more challenging multi-pitch routes without sacrificing comfort.