Neox is Petzl’s innovative assisted-braking belay device designed to meet all the needs of lead climbing on cliffs. Its main strength is the exceptional rope glide, which allows the climber to clip smoothly and without hitches.
The differences with the GriGri
Although the Neox aesthetically resembles the GriGri, it differs from Petzl’s historic device in its internal construction. When opening the belay device (as when inserting the rope), you will immediately notice a wheel that facilitates the rope’s exit without accidentally blocking it. The ergonomic handle, very similar to that of the GriGri, regulates the descent, which always remains under the control of the hand holding the brake side of the rope. In this way, the typical glide of a tube-style belay device combines with the practicality of an assisted-braking belay device, creating a new device that is extremely comfortable to use.
How to use the Neox
First of all, it is important to emphasize that, just like with the GriGri, with the Neox it is always crucial to keep the brake side of the rope with your right hand, with no exceptions. To feed out rope, you will use the same technique as the GriGri, guiding the rope with your right hand towards the entrance of the belay device and pulling it upwards with your left hand. While with the GriGri this phase requires a certain skill to feed out rope quickly without triggering the locking mechanism, with the Neox you will no longer have this problem, always giving the correct length of rope to the climber. This technique of feeding out rope without ever removing your hands is common to all Petzl devices, and thus will be particularly familiar to those who choose to try the new Neox. When stopping a fall, it is essential to always keep your right hand firmly on the brake side of the rope: the belaying technique remains the same as with the GriGri. The control of the belay device is always in our hands: only through correct use by us does the Neox’s blocking system engage or not engage. The internal brakes, which serve to stop rotation, activate only when the rope is under tension on both sides: the belayer’s side during a fall, and the brake side when held firmly with the hands. This way, the wheel moves upwards, the cam rotates forward, and the rope is locked between the two braking supports.
Which ropes it is compatible with
You can use Petzl’s new Neox with ropes ranging from 8.5 to 11mm in diameter. We recommend trying it on cliffs for lead climbing, whether onsight or redpoint, or for indoor climbing. Its use is quite intuitive but, given the importance of always having a hand on the brake side, it is advisable to try it when you already have a good awareness of the risks of incorrect belaying techniques.